Why Do Japanese People Go to “Cutting-Ties” Shrines?
Inside Yasui Konpiragu, En-kiri culture, and the story of Emperor Sutoku.
First, take a look at this photo.
What does it look like to you? A piece of modern art? Or perhaps a かまくら (Kamakura) - Japanese igloo made in snowy regions?
At first glance, it looks like a soft mound of snow. However, if you get closer and look closely, you will realize the surface is not snow at all. This white object is covered in countless sheets of “paper.” And on every single sheet, rustling dryly in the wind, someone’s desperate “wish” is scrawled.
“I want to cut ties with my hateful boss.” “I want to cut ties with my illness.” “I want to break away from my past self.” “I want to meet my destined partner.” “I want to find a workplace where I can be at peace.”
This is 安井金比羅宮 (Yasui Konpiragu), located in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto. It is one of Japan’s most famous shrines dedicated to ‘En-kiri’ (Severing Ties).
This strange megalith has a small hole in the center, just big enough for an adult to crawl through. People form lines, and when their turn comes, they kneel on the ground and crawl through the hole as if in prayer.
Why do people go so far as to crawl on the ground to pass through this hole? The hint lies in the “God” enshrined here. While three deities are worshipped, the main deity is 崇徳天皇 (Emperor Sutoku).
Actually, he is not just an Emperor. In Japanese folklore, he is a special existence, counted as one of 日本三大怨霊 (Japan’s Three Great Vengeful Spirits). An Emperor, yet a vengeful spirit. And a vengeful spirit, yet a guardian deity who organizes human relationships. Why was such a paradox born? This shrine hides the complex way Japanese people deal with relationships, along with the deep spirituality unique to Japan.
Today, I will guide you to this mysterious sanctuary in the back alleys of Kyoto. Let’s dig deep into 縁 (En) and 縁切り (En-kiri), and the depths of the Japanese heart.
The Curse Called Kindness
Why is such a special place so sought after in modern Japan? The key to unlocking that mystery lies hidden within our Japanese “national character.”
