Walking the Five Shrines of Togakushi

Ancient Myths and a 400-Year-Old Cedar Avenue

Japanese cedars around four hundred years old stretch deep along the approach.

This is 戸隠神社 (Togakushi Jinja) in Nagano Prefecture. Looking up at the towering cedars, I felt as though I had shrunk to the size of a tiny person and wandered into a world of giants.

Togakushi Shrine consists of five shrines, situated from the foot of the mountain to its innermost reaches. One preserves traces of a Buddhist temple, another enshrines a deity of water, and others are dedicated to deities from Japanese mythology. Each bears the imprint of Togakushi’s long history.

Why do the five shrines within a single sacred complex look so different? This time, I will follow the history of Togakushi as I make my way from 宝光社 (Hōkōsha) to 奥社 (Okusha) and 九頭龍社 (Kuzuryūsha).