From White to Blue: Crossing Japan’s Seasons from North to South
Life in Japan – Issue 016
Sometimes, even when we look at the same date on a calendar, the view outside our window refuses to give us a single “correct” answer.
This month, my work as a journalist took me to the snowfields of my hometown in 北海道 (Hokkaido). Just a few days later, I found myself standing on the sandy shores of 沖縄 (Okinawa) for a personal vacation. This journey, spanning approximately 3,000 km (about 1,860 miles) from the northern tip to the southern reaches of Japan, was more than just a trip—it was an experience of “crossing borders,” as if jumping between two entirely different seasons.
On one side was a fierce blizzard making national headlines; on the other, an early summer warmth that made me forget it was still February. This extreme contrast, brought about by just a few hours of flight, reminded me once again of the profound diversity of Japan. Today, I would like to share my record of these two extremes: the rugged beauty of the North through the eyes of a reporter, and the liberating warmth of the South as a traveler.
Hokkaido: Snowy Daily Life and the Memory of Reporting
The first half of my journey was a trip back to Hokkaido for a reporting assignment. February in Hokkaido is the most beautiful time of the year, but also the most unforgiving.
During my stay, Hokkaido was hit by a severe winter storm. At New Chitose Airport, heavy snow and poor visibility led to over 130 flight cancellations in a single day. The JR trains were also suspended for several days, primarily around the Sapporo area. Outside my window, the world was often lost in a ホワイトアウト (Whiteout)—a wall of pure white where you can’t see more than a few meters ahead. My planned trains were halted, and colleagues were delayed by canceled flights. It was a time that reminded me of the reality of a Hokkaido winter: things rarely go as planned. However, even in such harsh conditions, I was fortunate enough to catch moments of clear weather to complete the coverage I’ve shared with you.
In the midst of these storms, my mornings at my family home were defined by 雪かき (Yukikaki) - Snow Shoveling. Since I was staying at home rather than a hotel, clearing the driveway and the front of the house was an unavoidable daily chore. Silently moving layers of snow that had fallen tens of centimeters deep overnight became a meditative ritual. In the profound silence, only the sound of the shovel biting into the snow echoed—a rhythm that, in a way, felt like it was resetting my mind.
During my assignment, I visited two iconic winter events: the さっぽろ雪まつり (Sapporo Yuki Matsuri) - Sapporo Snow Festival, where giant snow sculptures line the city streets, and the 支笏湖氷濤まつり (Shikotsuko Hyoto Matsuri) - Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival, featuring mystical ice structures created from the crystal-clear waters of Lake Shikotsu.
After finishing my work in the freezing cold, the ultimate reward was always a warm meal. Whether it was the fragrant spice of スープカレー (Soup Curry), a rich bowl of 味噌ラーメン (Miso Ramen), fresh お寿司 (Oshushi) - Sushi, or the robust flavor of ジンギスカン (Jingisukan) - Grilled Mutton, every bite was exceptional. But above all, the simple, warm meals prepared by my mother were the irreplaceable flavors of home that truly healed me.
Leaving this world of white behind, I found myself enveloped in a vivid “blue” just a few days later.
Okinawa: Spring at the Other End of 3,000km
Immediately after returning from Hokkaido, I headed to Okinawa for a private getaway. The moment I stepped out of the airport, I stood still in surprise. The texture and temperature of the air against my skin were entirely different from where I had been just hours before. A humid, warm southern breeze greeted me.
This February in Okinawa was particularly special. Temperatures soared to nearly 25°C (77°F), leading to news reports of a 夏日 (Natsubi) - Summer Day, a level of heat rarely seen this time of year—some called it a “once-in-a-decade” occurrence. It felt like a lifetime ago that I was in Hokkaido, wearing thick socks and gloves, fully geared up for shoveling snow. The emerald green sea stretching out before me was so vibrant it made me forget the very concept of winter. The sense of liberation from being able to spend the day in just a T-shirt was the most shocking moment of the trip.
One of the highlights of this Okinawa visit was watching the 春季キャンプ (Shunki Kyanpu) - Spring Training Camp for professional baseball. I visited the stadium to see the 北海道日本ハムファイターズ (Hokkaido Nippon-Ham Fighters)—my local team and the former home of Shohei Ohtani before he moved to the MLB. Watching a team based in Hokkaido sweat under the bright Okinawan sun made me realize how vast Japan is and how each region plays its own role in the nation’s fabric. The sharp crack of the bats and the shouts of the players felt like the true footsteps of a spring that still felt so far away in the North.
Such a drastic environmental shift in just a few hours of travel is perhaps the greatest charm of journeying through the long, slender archipelago of Japan.
Travel Advice: Finding Your “Best” Season
Reflecting on this journey, I realized once more that every prefecture in Japan has a “golden window”—a perfect time to experience its charms to the fullest.
If you plan to visit Hokkaido, the winter scenery I experienced is truly peerless. However, you should prepare for the risk of transportation delays caused by heavy snow. I recommend leaving an extra day in your schedule and embracing any delays as part of the “northern initiation.” On the other hand, Hokkaido in summer is an excellent retreat from the heat. While the rest of Japan swelters, Hokkaido offers a refreshingly cool breeze. Just a note: if you are looking for a beach holiday like in Okinawa, be aware that the swimming season in Hokkaido is incredibly short. It is best enjoyed by driving through vast landscapes or visiting the brilliant flower fields.
Other regions also offer distinct seasonal “best” moments. For instance, 京都 (Kyoto) is at its most poetic during the 桜 (Sakura) - Cherry blossoms of spring or the fiery 紅葉 (Koyo) - Autumn colors. The architectural beauty of temples and shrines is most striking when framed by these natural hues.
Japan is a country deeply rooted in its 祭り (Matsuri) - Festival culture. If you are planning a trip to Japan, please let me know! I might be able to suggest the best destinations or hidden culinary gems for that specific time of year.
From white to blue. My journey this time was not only about feeling the scale of Japan but also about accepting the different timelines each land holds. Even within a single country, the experience changes entirely depending on when you visit. This unpredictable diversity is exactly why a journey through Japan never truly feels finished.
—Written by Sumire
I loved reading this, such a contrast between the two places and their climate. Thank you for sharing the beautiful photos too.